Now that we’ve returned to the joys of modern plumbing and
food that hasn’t had to be rehydrated, there’s been time to reflect on our
expedition in Patagonia.
Some students refer to the trip as “Patagucci,” the
implication being that an opportunity to earn 3 academic credits while hiking
in the Chilean wilderness must be a business school boondoggle. I’m fairly sure
the mental image conjured by most people is of a bunch of students decked head-to-toe
in Patagonia mountaineering apparel, sitting around a campfire with
marshmallows, singing camp songs. The reality
was very different. As arduous as the journey was, each of us came back grateful
for the experience. What’s more, we walked (or in some cases, hobbled) away
with some important takeaways on leadership and team dynamics.
uncertainty- don’t avoid it. There were so many moments when we
faced risky and unpredictable situations. We had to make decisions with very
little information. We’d start out on a promising route and have to change our
strategy partway through because the way we’d chosen was impassable. In some sense,
this was the way in which the trip was most analogous to the business world-
leaders face constant uncertainty in daily operations. Sometimes the greatest
measure of the leader is not how well they plan, but how well they adapt to
vs. the narrative. In every situation, there are the
objective facts and the story we tell ourselves about those facts. E.g., We’ve
been hiking for 6 hours. My pack is roughly half of my body weight. My feet are
blistering in my sodden boots. These are all indisputable things that are happening-
we have no control over the facts. The question becomes: will we choose to look
for the best in a situation, or the worst? Some of the most effective leaders
in history are those who are able change the course of events just by shaping
the narrative around them.
you make a decision, own it. On my day as designated leader, I
had a lot of doubt regarding whether I was making the best decisions for the
group, or if there was a better option. I felt personally responsible for the
well-being of my team, and wanted to make the day as smooth and easy as
possible for them. That was not to be! I had to do the best I could with the
information I had, and then stand by that choice and not second-guess it. No
one wants to follow a leader who is constantly apologizing for their decisions,
or wishing they had done something differently. Leaders should learn from their
mistakes, but should also be able to distinguish between mistakes and
circumstances beyond their control.
team is crucial. We had a lot of really tough days
during this expedition. Each of us was tested in different ways. No matter how
bad things got, I always knew I could rely on the people in my group. I was so
grateful to be part of a team that worked every day to be positive, supportive,
and helpful to one another. There were days when it was so hard to stay
optimistic, or even be pleasant, and hardly anyone complained, even despite great
hardship. Our success was due to everyone’s positivity, selflessness, and work
ethic. I realized how crucial it will be throughout my career to have a good
team to fall back on when times are hard.
As challenging as the trip was, I miss
it. There was a beautiful simplicity in having to do nothing more than get from
Point A to Point B in a day. There was a sense of pride and resilience. There
was a daily feeling of gratitude. It was the hardest thing I’ve ever done, and
also one of the most rewarding.
Other global immersion programs can keep their 3 and 4-star
hotels, their balloon rides over temples, their drinks by the beach and their
multi-course meals. On GIP Patagonia, we sacrificed toenails, patches of skin,
broken trekking poles, and boots whose soles detached mid-trip. With our blood,
sweat, and tears, we put the “immersion” in global immersion program. It was
worth every blister and bruise.
This is an account of Columbia Business Expedition 2’s (CBLE2)
trek through Cerro Castillo National Park.
DAY 1: The Expedition
The class travels to NOLS headquarters outside of Coyhaique,
Chile to sort our gear, collect rations, and pack backpacks. Most packs weigh
in at about 50lbs each. CBLE2, which consists of 10 CBS students and 2 NOLS
instructors, is transported 2 hours to the drop-off point, where we make camp in
a field for the night. Our instructor, Pablo, delivers a memorable and extensive
demonstration on the proper technique for defecating in the woods. We learn how
to light WhisperLite stoves and pitch tents. Then it’s early to bed in anticipation
of our first full day of hiking.
DAY 2: Into the
Approximately 2km in 8 hours
Our goal for the day is to follow the river through a
forest, about 6km to camp. We set a route based on the topographical map,
avoiding areas with closely-grouped contour lines, which denote steep elevation
gains. Each contour line represents about 20m rise in elevation. What the map
does not show is gain below 20m. Nor
does it show the state of the forest itself, which consists of lenga
trees. These trees, along with thorny calafate bushes, grow thickly
throughout the terrain.
This translates to 8 hours of bushwhacking through the forest, struggling through vegetation, pulling ourselves up 10-12m ravines by prickly calafate bushes. We go as far as we can until the sun is close to setting, and then we make camp. We know that we haven’t made our intended destination for the day (we will later realize that we have only trekked 2 of the 6km we’d set as a goal for the day), but the terrain is too technical to risk hiking in the dark. There isn’t any flat land on which to pitch tents, so we hack shallow pits into the dirt and string up tarps as cover overhead. Our backpacks go under our feet to keep us from sliding down the slope, and we sleep shoulder-to-shoulder, 5 people per tarp. In the middle of the night it starts raining, but we are too tired to care.
DAY 3- And Then There
Distance Traveled: 2km
in 4 hrs
On day 3, we encounter our first group setback as a team member is medically evacuated. She experienced significant knee pain during the hike the day before, and was afraid that she had aggravated an old injury. In consultation with our NOLS instructors, she decides that she should turn back and not complete the expedition. NOLS instructor Pablo, Jamie Merolla (’19), and Lorenzo Casalini (’19) mobilize as an evac team to hike her back to the drop-off point, where NOLS will collect her and bring her back to base camp for medical examination.
The rest of the group, led by NOLS instructor Mita, will continue to the site where we had intended to camp the day before and wait for the runner team to return to us. Four hours of bushwhacking later, we make camp next to a huge drainage.
DAY 4- And on the
Fourth Day, They Rested
The group rests and waits for the evac team to find us,
which they do my mid-afternoon. The bad news: after 3 days of hiking, we still
haven’t reached our destination for day 1. This effectively means that we have
no cushion in our route; we will have push harder to make up the time lost.
DAY 5- La Playa,
Distance traveled: ~6km
in 6 hrs
For the first time, we split into two student-led teams of
5-6 people. Over the course of the expedition, each student will have an
opportunity to lead a team for the day, setting the route, navigating the terrain,
and engaging in consultative decision-making. Each team is self-sufficient,
carrying enough gear and supplies so that if for some reason we don’t reunite
at set meeting point at the end of the day, we can still camp comfortably and
Fortune finally smiles on the group. My team, led by Thirza
Koppert (’19), drops out of the lenga forest to the river. We hike along the
dry river bed and make good time to camp. We even overshoot our goal for the
day, making it further than we’d hoped, which is a real morale booster. Both
self-sufficient teams celebrate by washing our clothes in the river, sunbathing,
and building a small bonfire on the bank after dinner. Spencer Flasjer (’19),
whose rallying cry has been, “Vamos a la playa!” (“Let’s go to the beach!”) is
DAY 6- Alpinists
Distance traveled: ?km in 7 hrs
We leave the lenga forest to hike into alpine territory, almost 600m up. Now that we are out of the forest and above the tree line, I’m finally able to enjoy the scenery past my own boots. Our route is up through a mountain pass, over a saddle, and down to a glacier lake. The ground is nothing more than loose scree over sheer cliffs that drop into the valley. The higher we get, the more thrilling the view, and the more dizzying the drop. The terrain makes several of us uneasy (especially those afraid of heights), but we press on without complaint. Also troubling is the fact that the tops of Moni Vinuales’s (’19) brand-new hiking boots have started separating from the soles. Pablo has attempted to cobble them back together using duct tape and needle and thread, but it’s a losing battle. We’re not sure what alternative Moni has, since her only other pair of shoes is an old pair of running shoes- not ideal for trekking.
After a tough slog upwards, the glacier lake is a beautiful sight- the blueness of the water is inconceivable. There’s only one problem: there’s no shoreline around the lake, and we have to pass to the other side. There is, however, a ring of snow that has accumulated around the rim, and we hike through it. At one point, Mita says to me, “Elizabeth, please slow down. If you slip and fall into the lake right now, I can’t help you.” I pick more carefully over the snow.
We make camp on the other side of the lake. The view is
spectacular- on one side the lake, on the other a cliff that drops down over
100m into the next valley. There is no dirt in which to drive our tent stakes,
so Pablo and Mita show us how to anchor the tents using big rocks. We try to
find spots next to boulders to shield our tents from the wind, which is gusting
forcefully. Once it gets dark, we stay up as late as we can stand in the cold
and watch the stars come out. We all agree that it’s one of the most incredible
sights we’ve ever seen.
Before we turn in, the instructors casually remark, “So tonight we need you all to make sure you’re packed up so if the wind gets too high and we have to evacuate in the middle of the night, you can grab your stuff quickly and go.” When we ask if that is likely, Pablo shrugs and says, “Yeah.” Each time the tent is buffeted by the wind during the night (read: several times an hour), I’m up like a shot, waiting to hear Pablo and Mita yell for us to leave. We make it through without incident, however.
DAY 7- Taking the
Helm for the Day
~6km in 8 hrs
“Oh [expletive],” is
my first thought on day 7. It is my day as designated leader, where I will take
one of the two self-sufficient teams through our planned route. Today we are
descending back into a valley, down a very steep and precarious rock face, with
lots of small, loose rocks. What concerns me when I wake up is the sound of
rain- and wind- on the tent. Safety is my primary concern, and the already technical
route has become riskier with the inclement weather.
We make it down safely, thanks in large part to Max Esteves
(’19) and Ben McCabe (’19), who act as scouts, helping determine the best path
for the team. At this point, Mita has traded her hiking boots for Moni’s old
running shoes, and is hiking with very little support or traction. I am trying
to be mindful of her situation as we hike. Once we get properly into the
valley, we are dismayed to find that the forest along the river is much like
the one we’ve just left two days ago- filled with steep ravines, huge drainages,
and thick vegetation.
I start kicking myself- I feel personally responsible for leading the team through this situation. I’m convinced that I made a mistake, and if I had chosen a different path, we’d be making better time. At one point I turn to Max, an experienced mountaineer, and say, “What could I have done better here? Where did I go wrong?” He looks at me and says, “Hey, this is a tough day. There’s no right or wrong answer. We’re all here making these decisions with you- you’re not alone. This terrain is just difficult.” I appreciate his support, but have a hard time getting out of my own head.
We make it to the designated meeting spot about 10 minutes after
the other self-sufficient team arrives. They had a similarly arduous day, climbing
way up into the forest in a fruitless search for a flat way forward. During our
team debrief, my group encourages me to be a more assertive leader, and to work
harder at fighting off self-doubt.
DAY 8- A Taste of the
Distance traveled: ~8km
in 8 hrs
Eureka: my cooking group realizes at breakfast that hot
oatmeal, peanut butter, and chocolate transform into an alchemical combination.
Try it at home, it’s delicious.
The expedition is winding down, and we are racing towards the finish point. Our goal for the day is to get out of the lenga forest once and for all, and make our way to a lake, where we will camp. The next day we’ll locate the first trail of the expedition and follow it to the pickup point. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. Probably a close translation of what Icarus said right before he took his wax wings for their first test flight.
Somehow my self-sufficient team is incredibly fortunate, and after a steep ascent, we find a cattle trail. No longer required to bushwhack, we make our way into a series of lush fields, with tall grasses, sweet-smelling clover, and small clumps of cattle. We are giddy with happiness. We arrive at camp at around 6pm, and pitch tents under a grove of cherry trees, which we raid and stuff ourselves with fruit.
Darkness gathers, and around 9pm, we realize that the other
team isn’t coming. We assume that they were unable to find the trail that we
stumbled across, and had to make camp for the night elsewhere. NOLS protocol
dictates that if one team isn’t able to make it to the meeting point on the
designated day, they have until noon the following day to catch up.
DAY 9- Sweet Reunion
~6km in 10 hrs
By noon, the other self-sufficient team hasn’t yet arrived, and we are starting to worry. Our team has had a leisurely breakfast (a makeshift cherry cobbler made from leftover granola, butter, sugar, and local cherries), filled our water bladders, packed our gear, and enjoyed spotting wildlife- 3 condor and a fox. We are about to strike out in search of the other team, when they straggle in around 1pm, clearly exhausted. They have been hiking since 7am, after a particularly grueling previous day. While we had crossed the river and ventured across the left side of the forest, they had stayed on the right, only to learn that there was no way to reach the lake from that side. They had to backtrack and cross the river to make it to the meeting point.
I ask Spencer what had been the toughest part. He says, “Where
we camped, there was no real water source. There was ground water falling down
the mountain, but it was more of a trickle than a stream, and we had to dig to
get to it. It was getting dark, and I was sitting alone, holding my water
bottle in one hand, and tapping drops of water off of a leaf into the bottle
with the other hand. All of a sudden, my nose started bleeding, and I realized
I didn’t have enough hands, so I sat bleeding until I finished filling my water
We give the other team an hour regroup and rehydrate before setting off for our final hike. We hike up into the mountains, searching for a part of the trail that the map indicated would lead us down to a flat plain, where we can walk on a service road out to the pickup point. However, we never find the split in the trail. We keep ascending until close to sundown, at which point we realize we have to get off the mountain quickly before dark. We have already called NOLS to see if we can push back our pickup time for the next day, but they respond: “Pickup is at 7am. We can’t change the schedule.”
Finding our way off the mountain is the first time I have seen either Pablo or Mita a bit unsettled. There is no trail, and we are forced to find our own way down a sheer cliff face. At certain points, we remove and lower our packs down the mountain, and then rappel down without ropes or harnesses, using only califate bushes (we have all taken to wearing winter gloves while hiking to minimize the number of thorns that embed themselves in our hands), or cracks in the rock as hand and footholds. Everyone is tired and dehydrated, particularly the team that has been hiking since 7am. After a hairy scrabble down the mountainside, we reach the plain around nightfall. We ford our last river and hike another 4km up the service road to the pickup point. We make camp at midnight. We have hiked about 10 hours all together; the team that was delayed has hiked 16 hours in one day.
DAY 10- Back to NOLS
We are up at 6am to pack up and ready ourselves for the bus back to base camp. We fill out evaluations and paperwork en route. Once we unload at NOLS, we have to go through gear check, cleaning out tents, washing backpacks, returning unused rations. Then we are allowed to shower for the first time in 10 days. My hair is so greasy that I have to wash it twice before the shampoo suds. Our legs boast constellations of bruises.
We are too exhausted to really reflect on the experience. We
head back to Coyhaique to eat our way through the town.
The pre-trip coursework for GIP Patagonia included an article about the conservation of 10 million acres in Chile, the result of a public-private partnership between the founder of the North Face brand, Douglas Tompkins, and the Chilean government. Mr. Tompkins’s conservation organization donated 1 million acres that he acquired over two decades; the Chilean government donated the remaining 9 million. The land forms the Patagonia National Park system, which is “more than three times the size of the Yosemite and Yellowstone parks combined,” and “expands Chile’s national parklands by nearly 40 percent.” The park is now untouchable by mining interests, as well as the logging industry and ranchers, who want to capitalize on the country’s natural resources. This endeavor highlights a unique example of “doing well by doing good;” instead of bulldozing forward and achieving his vision on his terms, Mr. Tompkins struck a compromise and partnered with the Chilean government, to their mutual benefit.
couple of details make this story remarkable: first, the deal rose out of a
desire for social and environmental good, as opposed to a pressing business
need. A growing field of study at CBS is how businesses can profit from social
impact. In this case, Tompkins’s brand prospered, and then he leveraged his personal
wealth to benefit a place he loved. The upshot is a lasting legacy for Mr. Tompkins
and Chile, as well as indirect benefit to North Face’s brand.
so many companies want to exert change on their own terms- tax incentives in exchange
for bringing business to cities; funding projects in exchange for branding and
publicity. Communities often question what motivates corporations to bankroll
change. The more land Mr. Tompkins purchased, the more backlash he received: he
was stifling the economy (the business community); he was putting Chilean
sovereignty at risk (military officials/ politicians); he was attempting to
exert foreign control over the country (leftists, nationalists); etc.
Many Chazen trips focus on change and innovation- how countries are developing to meet new challenges and improve the lives of their citizens. What often goes unexamined is whether certain cultural aspects deserve to be preserved. Is all change positive, or is the issue more complex? Chile is still grappling to balance economic progress and environmental preservation. While we were hiking, our NOLS instructors told us that just outside of the park, a mining company is looking to buy up huge tracts of land. The local community is divided about the prospect- some feel it would bring more jobs to the region, while others feel it could damage tourism, which is currently a huge economic force. Questions like this will continue to arise in Chile and should be an integral part of the GIP Patagonia coursework.
With the semester off and racing, Chazen Indonesia 2019 remains a lovely memory of this winter break. After the trip ended, some of us went on to do a Bali extension and visit Komodo Dragons on the Flores Islands; others hopped on flights to join the GIP Philippines or GIP Myanmar classes; and still others continued on to neighboring countries like Vietnam, Singapore, or Thailand to continue exploring the region during the last weeks of CBS winter break. Personally, I flew to Singapore, where I had the chance to visit one of my best friends from college and travel with her to Hanoi, Vietnam.
As any CBS student who has done a Chazen trip knows, the jam-packed itinerary of the trip leaves little time for introspection. I am guessing that’s why the Chazen Institute requests that we Chazen travel bloggers file a follow-up post with reflections and lessons learned. Speaking for myself, especially as I continued my travels in the Southeast Asia region after the trip, I’ve been able to gain a richer perspective on the experiences we had in Indonesia.
A few weeks after returning home, here are the themes from the trip that are still stuck in my mind.
Being true to who you are – as a nation As I consider authenticity to be one of my own personal values, I was excited to hear Thomas Lembuang speak about it on our first office visit at BKPM, an agency promoting foreign investment in Indonesia. His perspective is that authenticity is just as important on an organizational or even national scale as it is on a personal one.
This makes sense – if individuals are more successful when they are authentic and self-aware, why wouldn’t companies and even countries be so as well? But I had never thought about authenticity in this way before. As an Indonesian himself, Mr. Lembuang has a high level of awareness of the characteristics, tendencies, strengths and weaknesses of Indonesian culture, and he uses that insight to understand what types of businesses and industries will be most successful there. For example, based on Indonesians’ national characteristics of gentleness, openness and hospitality, he believes the country is on its way to becoming even more of a tourism powerhouse in the region.
Importing brands – what works and what doesn’t One of the highlights of the week for many of us was the opportunity to meet Kevin Johnson, CEO of Starbucks, at the opening of the Starbucks Dewata Coffee Sanctuary in Bali on January 12. The impromptu visit resulted from a generous invitation from Virendra Prakash Sharma, CEO of Mitra Adiperkasa, with whom we met in Jakarta at one of our scheduled company visits earlier in the week. The opportunity to attend this invitation-only event was definitely a strong #whycbs moment.
At 20,000 square feet, the store is the largest Starbucks in Southeast Asia and is meant to give visitors an immersive coffee experience, including a 1,000 square foot Arabica coffee tree farm. Our visit tied into our conversation with V.P. Sharma earlier in the week, continuing our discussion about which Western brands will succeed in the region and which won’t. Krispy Kremes did; Jamba Juice didn’t. And Starbucks did. (For more information on the Coffee Sanctuary, check out coverage in Food & Wine and Business Insider. )
A country rich in diversity While our days were packed with company visits, I appreciated the variety of opportunities we had to learn more about Indonesian and Balinese culture as well. On the first day of the trip, we received our very own batik outfits, and then a few days later, we visited the National Textile Museum to learn how to make them ourselves. We had an impromptu karaoke session at a local bar in Jakarta. When we landed at the airport in Bali, our tour company received us by placing a beautiful chain of marigolds over each our heads. We had “hippie health food” while sitting on the floor at Clear Café ,and then witnessed a local religious procession while driving into the mountains toward Nandini Jungle Resort, our accommodations for the evening. That night, we enjoyed a show featuring traditional Balinese dance, which was slow and mesmerizing. Some of us even joined the dancers out on the floor, though we weren’t sure how to match their pace (apparently, it takes seven years to learn the dance properly.) It was wonderful to encounter Indonesian hospitality at every turn.
Returning home was certainly bittersweet, as I’m still nostalgic for warm ocean breezes, tropical fresh fruit, and especially those purple Balinese sunsets.